Culinary foray

If you want to sail out on his cutter with fisherman Uwe Dunkelmann, you have to get up early. The red fishermen's hats are characteristically bright and the cries of the seabirds make the idyllic setting perfect on this fall morning. The water is still as smooth as glass. Until Uwe rummages his bright orange fishing trousers out of the cabin, climbs in and diligently loads boxes. He hopes for a good catch - even if there are fewer fish every year.

„Uschi“ is a classic fishing boat. The ten-metre-long wooden boat rattles loudly, a couple of men on the pier flutter away in fright. As soon as the cutter has left the harbor basin, the Baltic Sea instantly becomes rougher, the waves crash harder and the wind whistles around your ears. „This out here, this is freedom for me“, says Uwe with a cup of steaming coffee in his hand. „The sea has so many facets. Now, in the fall, it is particularly wild and beautiful.

Two red flags waving on the water: this is where Uwe sank one of his nets yesterday. He pulls in the lines using a net hauler - when the net comes up, two shore crabs are wriggling in it. "By-catch," explains Uwe and throws them back into the sea with a skillful flick of the wrist. On the way back we have plaice, mackerel and a few herrings in the boxes. These are typical autumn fish, as the Baltic Sea is already below 13 degrees.

The 290-metre-long seabreak of the Baltic seaside resort of Boltenhagen comes into view. The sky opens up and the first rays of sunshine of the day illuminate the long sandy beach and the shallow dunes of the bay, which is perfectly framed by steep cliffs. Walkers can be seen on the beach. Will they be eating Uwe's fresh plaice today? „No problem, it’s available at Fischereihof Kamerun“, says Uwe. „That's where we unload them now. Except for two. I'll give them to you as well.

The ensemble of three adjoining, listed merchants' houses behind the harbor is about to open for a hearty lunch. Then the first guests will be sitting at the solid wood tables and the copper tap will be spitting out fresh beer at a steady pace. The clear favorite at the Brauhaus am Lohberg is the Wismarer Mumme. The dark strong beer is a true legend and is still brewed today according to a traditional recipe. "Beer has really made Wismar the time-honored, chic Hanseatic city that it is today," says employee Micha, who polishes glasses behind the bar.

Because the water quality in Wismar is particularly good, as is the finest grain. Around the year 1500, there are said to have been almost 200 breweries in Wismar. From the „brewery of the Hanseatic League“ beer was exported from the ships all over the world. „And the strong beer was the favorite to ship, which lasted particularly long on the high seas thanks to its high alcohol content“, Micha continues and taps the first beer of the day. „The Wismarer Mumme has even made it as far as India!“ He places a glass and a freshly tapped mug full to the brim on the bar. Light, firm foam on a dark brew. After enjoying the freshly tapped beer, we take the mug with us for later.

Antje Katreniok disappears between the gigantic pine trees. Here, in the urban forest near the Ribnitzer Großes Moor nature reserve in the Baltic Sea spa town of Graal-Müritz, man is very small. The forest and moorland area nestles between the dunes and the Rostock Heath, the largest contiguous coastal forest in Germany. But it's the little things along the way that Antje comes here with her heart and soul for: wild herbs.

„You can go collecting herbs all year round. Now, at the beginning of September, we still have lots of garlic turnips, which taste delicious in salads. Or here“, Antje says to herself. Some sunlight falls on the bright green, feathery leaves under the trees. „That is goutweed. It used to be known as a medicinal herb. A real magic remedy! And it tastes good too“, she picks a few leaves. And explains: „However, you only take up to 30 percent of the stock. That leaves enough for the animals and nature. But that is not so important with goutweed," laughs Antje. „It grows back immediately.“

In fact, Antje doesn't even find most of the herbs under the wild ferns that cover the forest floor between the giant trees to the right and left. Instead, they can be found right at the edge of the path, like the woodruff and woodruff here. „In principle, there are wild herbs everywhere - you just have to take the time to look in peace. Nature takes care of that all by itself. The herbs are simply there, and you can cook great things with them. Here, for you, Antje hands us the basket of fresh wild herbs.

Frank Haarde ties on his chef's apron. In front of him on the silver tray in the kitchen of the Upstalsboom Hotel in the Baltic seaside resort of Kühlungsborn are the two plaice from the Baltic seaside resort of Boltenhagen, the jug of Wismar Mumme and the fresh game herbs from the Baltic seaside spa of Graal-Müritz. „Well then …“ Frank wastes no time. The man in his mid-fifties has been a chef at Upstalsboom in the Baltic seaside resort of Kühlungsborn since 2013 and will now create something spontaneously from the fresh ingredients of the Mecklenburg Baltic seaside resort. First, the plaice is seasoned with the wild herbs. Meanwhile, melt a thick knob of butter in the pan. A little breadcrumb coating and the fish is already sizzling in the pan. More butter for the fish. The lion's tooth and woodruff make a deliciously fresh salad in no time at all. The plaice is turned – and this is where the Wismarer Mumme comes into play! Frank takes a strong sip of the dark beer with the plaice.

It smells wonderful in the stylish kitchen of the Upstalsboom. The hotel with 169 rooms and suites is located right behind the beach, including a beautiful spa area. Another reason to come in the fall: the food festival „Kühlungsborn kocht“. The Upstalsboom and five other hotels and their restaurants invite you to get to know the regional cuisine of the Baltic Sea at themed evenings, workshops and gourmet menus. Right in the middle of it all: Chef Frank of course.

With an elegant flourish, Frank places the steaming plaice on the plate. A few last wild herbs on top - and that's it! And to go with it? A Wismar Mumme, of course! „Bon appétit“, wishes Frank with a friendly wave to the meal laid out on the white table of the hotel's own Brunshaupten restaurant. It only tastes as fresh as this in the Baltic Sea region of Mecklenburg, where nature produces the finest ingredients.